Antique Persian Rugs

Rug Mat Soft

Litter box problems?

I have a 12 year old Russian Blue cat. He's been using the litter box for 10 years and I've used the same litter all his life. I bought this new soft, black mat and put it in front of my shower. He hasnt been using the litter box that much th past two years but he did most of the time. I've had the mat for 2 weeks and he hasnt used the litter box once, he's used the mat. I've told him "NO" and pointed at the rug and put him in his litterbox when he needs to poo or just pooed. He's also been doing his business in his soft cat bed, my bed and the carpet. Any ways to cure this?

We have 8 cats.
First of all, where are you putting the cat's food and water?
The first rule of kitty elimination is that cats hate to eat where they "go" and they hate to "go" where they eat. If you have the food and water next to the litter box, you have committed the most common mistake that cat owners commit, which is the single biggest cause of kittys going elsewhere. A kitty would rather risk going somewhere else than risk contaminating their food, so your best bet is to move the food and water either to the opposite side of the room from the litter box, or, even better, to a different room altogether from the litter box. Then make sure you have at least 2 - 3 inches of litter in that litter box and that you keep it scooped and clean. Kittys also hate not enough litter, and they hate dirty toilets. You wouldn't like going in a dirty, smelly toilet. Neither do they.
Your next step is to get a cleaner that has a chemical in it that breaks down the enzyme that causes an odor from the poop and pee that you may not be able to smell - but your cat can - and clean the spots where kitty "did it" with it thoroughly. Such a cleaner is available at most pet stores, and will help the kitty not to be attracted to that spot.
Then remember the first rule of kitty elimination again: Cats hate to eat where they "go" and hate to "go" where they eat. Your kitty needs to be reprogrammed with positive reinforcement for proper elimination behavior. You do this by getting small bowls of food and putting them on top of any spot where your kitty has been "going". Keep those bowls consistently filled with a dry "kibble" cat food for the next few weeks. This will communicate to the kitty that this is a happy, secure place (which cats associate with food) and not a place for improper elimination. (This may seem messy and inconvenient, but it works!!!) After a few weeks, you should be able to remove the bowls and the kitty will may longer be attracted to that spot for improper elimination.
Keep in mind that this trick WILL NOT WORK if you have not moved the food and water far away from the litter in the first place.
If all of this fails, take your kitty to the vet and have it examined for any possible infection as that also sometimes can affect this type of behavior.
We have 8 cats, have had up to 11 - at ages all the way up to 19 years old, all are indoor kittys, and this method has worked like a charm. All respect litter box rules.
One last note: Kittys seldom respond to punishment. They are unable to associate punishment with behavior - especially if it is after the fact. They do, however, respond to positive reinforcement.

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